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| Aymeric | | chef de la tour de Babel |  | | 655 messages postés |
|  Posté le 26-02-2006 à 10:42:40    
| Bonjour,
je viens vous demander conseil pour coller les membres des figurines en plastique souple, genre Hät. J'ai essayé la super glue mais ça ne tient pas, et aussi la colle blanche. Je voulais tenter avec du trychlo mais apparement on ne peut plus en acheter 
merci de votre aide,
à bientôt,
Aymeric
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| quepwik | | La guêpe de l'espace | | Ludiverbiste fou |  | | 3368 messages postés |
| Posté le 26-02-2006 à 13:39:13
| Je crois qu'on en a déjà parlé ici !
Il avait été évoquer de la colle néoprene il me semble !
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L'administration est un lieu ou les gens qui arrivent en retard croisent dans l'escalier ceux qui partent en avance. |
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| Aymeric | | chef de la tour de Babel | | | 655 messages postés |
| Posté le 26-02-2006 à 14:19:45
| oups pardon, je vais essayer la néoprène alors !
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| quepwik | | La guêpe de l'espace | | Ludiverbiste fou | | | 3368 messages postés |
| Posté le 26-02-2006 à 14:22:22
| pas d'probleme !
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L'administration est un lieu ou les gens qui arrivent en retard croisent dans l'escalier ceux qui partent en avance. |
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| Aymeric | | chef de la tour de Babel | | | 655 messages postés |
| Posté le 27-02-2006 à 09:20:52
| petit problème : ça ne tient pas avec la néoprène...
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| colonel klink | | Tracks leader |  | | 2115 messages postés |
| Posté le 27-02-2006 à 10:45:30
| il faut fabriquer un petit axe avec par exemple une aiguille et coller le tout à la superglue gel.
c'est pas genial mais ça tient suffisament pour peindre la fig
aprés il faut plus toucher 
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| Aymeric | | chef de la tour de Babel | | | 655 messages postés |
| Posté le 27-02-2006 à 11:24:00
| ok merci ! j'ai recollé à la glue gel et ça tient pour le moment !
j'y toucherai plus après, promis
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| Pat95 | | Tracks leader |  | | 5276 messages postés |
| Posté le 27-02-2006 à 12:28:05
| Fais un saut dans une grande surface, genre Leroy Merlin, et demande à un gugusse ce qu'ils ont comme colle pour plastique mou. Je sais qu'il en existe une catégorie.
De toute façon, il faut une colle spéciale pour ce type de plastique.
Patrick
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"Messieurs les maitres, veuillez assurer vos chapeaux , nous allons avoir l'honneur de charger !"
Mr de Montesson, commandant la Maison du Roi, bataille de Fontenoy, 11 mai 1745. |
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| Aymeric | | chef de la tour de Babel | | | 655 messages postés |
| Posté le 27-02-2006 à 13:21:33
| j'irais voir pour la prochaine fois.........
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| Francisco | | le monde en petite échelle | | Doré sur tranches |  | | 261 messages postés |
| Posté le 27-02-2006 à 14:14:27
| 1) In Germany we can buy a glue called "K-S Vielzweck-Kleber". It is a set of second-glue for industrial use (Zyanacryl) and "Polyolefin-Primer". This diabolical mixture glues everything, especially soft-Plastics. The address which is given on the little bottles is as follows:
K+S Industriebedarf GmbH
D-69436 Schönbrunn-Schwanheim
Tel. international: 0049/6262/3899.
Artikel-Number: 66610 for the polyolefin-primer, 20010 for the glue.
- Roland Kupski, Germany
2) Here in Germany we have no longer a problem to glue the conventional PE figures. We have the "K+S Klebeset". It is a primer system which supplies fantastic results. Very little parts glue very strong and resistant. - Björn Rose, Germany
3) I use since the 70's Bostik contact glue, or Pattex contact by Henkel, is the same glue used for laminate furniture. The system is to prepare the two sides to add scratching those with the cutter, and placing a thin layer of glue in both sides, and adding with some pressure after 60 seconds. The fixing effect is still good after almost 20 years!!! This glue is perfect also for glue different material together like metal, paper, fabric. - Francesco Messori, Italy
4) In the UK, USA & Australia Loctite markets a Polyolefin Primer 770. This allows their (and presumably other's) adhesives to work on soft plastics. - Dave Allen, UK
5) I have found that it is often easier to use a putty such as Kneadatite rather than glue. This is especially true when dealing with the more rigid plastics which resist having support wire forced into them. For instance I have been swaping torsos between figures by sandwiching a small dab of putty between the two pieces of plastic. - Andy Brozyna, US
6) I use Citadel Superglue for all figures. They do come apart but the effort to separate glued pieces is considerable. This would be a cheaper alternative than a glue gun. Also I use paper glue when I want to temporarily glue pieces, such as waiting to paint them. This is not sturdy but the glue can be completely peeled or cleaned out before painting starts. - Mario Tambay, Canada
7) You can find worldwide very expensive LOCTITE glue (loctite 406, 20g), and its primer (loctite 770, 10g) for soft plastics (polyethylene) -about 300,00 FF (43 $) -.
But in the north of France, I've had to find THE good reseller (this range of glue is not available in standard shops :-((( like leroy-merlin, castorama, auchan, carrefour...), I've found one through internet www.copiden.com (if one of French modellers need to buy this type of glue, and don't know where to buy that, you can give to him this address - fine because you can pay by check, or he can phone to Loctite France 03 44 21 66 00). - Christian Olejniczak, France
8) I have used H.B. Fuller Plastic Bond (a primer based system) with success on soft plastic parts. Regrettably no longer available in Australia, it is made in USA for HB Fuller, part no 15104 (2g adhesive, 3.25ml primer). - Stuart Lee, Australia.
9) I have just discovered a way to glue polythene figures with a rather strong bond, enough to withstand the use and abuse during a wargame or even playing with your kids, like in my case. The way is to use a melting glue of the kind used with gluing pistols (Ed: These are also known as glue guns in the US) sold in any store, and really cheap. I have just tried it and you get a bond very hard against traction and not so strong if you try a lever effect onto it. Just get a small drop of melted glue from the pistol into the piece you want to glue and proceed rapidly with the other part, the problem is you don't have too many time to go around, just a few seconds. If it does not go properly on the first try you can retry it for the bond is strong but not permanent. You must be very careful as the glue is hot, you might hurt yourself or damage the piece if too hot. A collateral effect are the hair thin lines of glue you get everywhere but you can get rid of them easilly. Also you can have excess glue arround the joint, it is not easy to get only the amount you want, but you can trim it when cold with a sharp knife, and with practice I think the process can be mastered. I have not tried it yet but I think a pyrogravure could also be used latter to melt the excess glue so you can remove it easily. The fact that the glue is hot, the temperature level will be key for a good bonding, helps the hardness of the union. I hope this tips will be useful. - Alberto Zumarraga, Spain.
10) I've been using Lee Russell's paper clip tip since I've read about it. I don't use it to remove flash (I personally feel better with a medical scalpel) but to change arms, legs or weapons positions. Also with this tip I've definitely solved the problem of gluing parts of a soldier on an other: the hot paper clip is placed in a sandwich position between for example a separate head and the neck, for about one second then swiftly removed to let the two oppposite parts be gently pressed on one another. Thus superficially melted plastic is "eternally" glued by itself when cold (after 1 second). The resulting flash is then suppressed. It's very effective to glue arms on shields.Caution : I've lost a few figures before being trained with it. Now I've nearly forgotten the word "glue"... Merci à Mr. Russell. - Marc Belloni from France
http://www.hat.com/Tips.html
J'ai utilisé la coulle Patex aussi pour mes conversions et comme les figurines ne sont pas pour les wargames il ne sont pas cassé encore..
Message édité le 27-02-2006 à 14:16:50 par Francisco |
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| shermanologue de garde | | (presque) tout est dans le pseudo ! | | dangereux beutemaniaque |  | | 5808 messages postés |
| Posté le 27-02-2006 à 14:56:41
| Merci !
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Claude
Le maquettisme plastique, c'est tenir l'histoire dans ses mains |
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| Aymeric | | chef de la tour de Babel | | | 655 messages postés |
| Posté le 27-02-2006 à 15:52:32
| Merci Francisco
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| Alain | | Tracks leader |  | | 1787 messages postés |
| Posté le 20-03-2006 à 18:38:22
| vu sur site ITALIERI
Il aurait sorti une nouvelle colle "let's glue it" etudiée pour.
quelqu un l a t il deja vu et si oui essaye?
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Alain |
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| colonel klink | | Tracks leader | | | 2115 messages postés |
| Posté le 21-03-2006 à 08:26:32
| a noter que les nouvelles fig Hat , en l'occurrence les motocyclistes allemands, se collent à la colle maquette "classique"
j'ai teste, ça marche
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Fred |
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| Laurent | | Faire petit et le faire bien ! | | Tracks leader |  | | 11249 messages postés |
| Posté le 21-03-2006 à 18:36:40 
| C'est une bonne chose.
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Laurent
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j'parle pas aux cons, ça les instruit !
les cons ça ose tout, c'est à ça qu'on les r'connait !
Audiard |
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| Aymeric | | chef de la tour de Babel | | | 655 messages postés |
| Posté le 25-03-2006 à 12:39:36
| c'est un plastique plus dure ?
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| colonel klink | | Tracks leader | | | 2115 messages postés |
| Posté le 27-03-2006 à 08:15:25
| non, les fig Hat sont dans un plastique (trop) mou
par contre les nouvelles fig italeri, sont dans une nouvelle matiere(SSM) plus dure (degrapage difficile) mais sensée etre plus facile a coller
là, je n'ai pas encore essayé
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Fred |
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